Glenallachie 2014

Even drier than the corresponding release in sherry wood, this expression from a young but always interesting and unique Speyside distillery is one of the very few entirely matured in Madeira casks. Obviously, the overall character is extremely winey, with a stimulatingly sour note and the typically oxidated and nutty aromas that are trademarks of this Portuguese fortified wine. It’s extremely mouth-watering, with a sharp but warm character, with salty and yeasty notes: quite extreme, of course, but the unusual match between wine and whisky actually works very well. It’s enjoyable by itself, as a refreshing change of pace, but it’s particularly stunning when paired when aged cheese. One of those whiskies that defy boundaries, and all the more unique because of it.